My Third French Mass: Saint-Sulpice

For Mass on Sunday, July 21st, I took Dr. Smith’s suggestion and went to Saint-Sulpice, deciding to go to the 11 AM Mass.

Since this is my first time visiting the church, I haven’t done a history of it yet. Here it is:

According to its website, the groundbreaking of this church started on February 20, 1646, with Anne of Austria, widow of King Louis XIII, laying the first stone. It was to replace a dilapidated church too small for the rapidly-growing population. All but the facade was finished by 1731, after a period of financial difficulty halting the construction. The design of the inside is 17th century French Classical style. The church was consecrated  on June 30, 1745, almost 100 years after construction first started. After a competition in 1739, construction started on the facade. However, for 20 years the construction was suspended, then a new competition was launched and work started again in 1766 with a new architect.

Then, during the French Revolution, the work on the facade was halted again. Instead of a church, it became “a place for public meetings,” being decommissioned in February 1793 and then used for the cult of Reason. Much of the interior was destroyed, including the main altar, chapel altars, and bells. It was looted and the grave crypt was ransacked, the bones scattered on the ground. The only things that were not harmed were the stained glass windows, organ, gnomon and balustrade of the choir, and the pulpit.

After the Concordat of 1801, it became a Catholic church again. Paintings and statues were recovered and brought back to the church. By 1824, the church was fully repaired from the damage inflicted during the Revolution, with a new, white marble high altar. Between 1845 and 1875, new paintings were commissioned for the church. During this same time period, the great organ was inaugurated in 1866. The church received restoration in the 21st century.

Also, look who’s back! Out of all the saints I’ve seen at churches in Paris, Saint Anthony of Padua seems to be one of the most common. I saw him at Saint-Germain the previous week, too.

Here are my thoughts about the Mass:

Architecture

This church is built in the French Classical/Baroque style, different than the Romanesque and Gothic Saint-Germain-des-Prés and the very, very Gothic (flamboyant Gothic) Saint-Séverin. Therefore, it was whiter, less pointy, and more classical.

Size

The church was fairly full during Mass. I couldn’t get the best look, as I was sitting in the front section, which I normally do. The pamphlet lady (see below) also told/asked me to (I think she was telling everyone to, to try and stop people from sitting everywhere but the front), so I did what I was told!

At the Mass, there was one priest presiding over the Mass. There two others helping him. I’m not sure who they were and what their roles were. They were both wearing all white and wearing crosses, but their white vestments and their crosses were different. What I’ve learned over this week and last week is that I don’t know what vestments are what!

I didn’t see any incense during the Mass, unlike at the other two churches, which may indicate that neither of the white-robed men were altar servers (maybe?).

Length

The Mass was about 1 hour and 15 minutes, longer than the typical 1 hour length Mass. I’m not sure why it was longer-nothing about the Mass was different.

Language

The Mass was completely in French, like the other two I’ve been to. However, at this church, attendees were given pamphlets with the readings and some of the songs and prayers. There were French pamphlets and English pamphlets, which were different colors (French=green, English=pink). Right as you entered the church, there was a table with a woman who greeted you and gave you one. When she said “Bonjour!”, I said “Bonjour” back, but then she immediately asked “English?” in terms of which pamphlet. Apparently, I don’t sound remotely French! The English-speaking couple in Front of me also said “Bonjour!” but she asked them which language they wanted!

Looking at the colors around me when I was sitting in my seat, there definitely seemed to be a mix of French and English speakers, and I wouldn’t say which one was more present. I did sit in the front, though, so I couldn’t see everyone.

Oddly enough, only the readings were in English. The songs and prayers were in French. I guess English-speakers could follow along, but if you don’t speak any French, it would be hard to say the prayers out loud with everyone else. I think they assume that those going to the Mass are Catholic and know what the prayers are and what they mean in English, so they don’t have to be translated.

Other People

As I just mentioned, there seemed to be a mix of English and French speaking people at Mass. I didn’t notice anyone walking around during Mass. Admittedly, I did sit in the seat right next to the aisle in the middle, so I couldn’t see the side aisles and chapels very well. The only possibly exception was around Communion, when I saw an usher go to talk to a mom and her kid(s) that were near the side chapels. I don’t know for sure if they were walking around or not.

However, it appears that this church does have that problem. I saw this sign when I was walking around before Mass, as well as these chairs lined up that appeared to be trying to block people from moving forward, though the lady that was on front of me walked right between the chairs.

Kneeling

As with Saint-Germain, but unlike Saint-Séverin, there was a mix of people kneeling. However, at this church, most did not kneel, whereas a greater percentage did at Saint-Germain. At this point, I can only make a guess as to why. To me, there appeared to be more tourists at both Saint-Séverin and at Saint-Sulpice. Maybe that has something to do with it? More tourists=less kneeling? However, correlation does not equal causation!

Communion

This was probably the most organized leaving of the pews. Everyone waited for the people in front of them to leave. I was in the front section, so I went up to the altar to get Communion. The people behind me, sitting in the other sections, got Communion from the extraordinary minister of Holy Communion, who stood at the front of their section.

The only weird thing was that as I stood up, but stayed at my seat, waiting for the people in front of me to get in line, the usher said something to me. It was in French (she must have not seen my pink English-language pamphlet!), so I’m not sure what exactly she said, but it sounded like she was telling me to get in line. I was waiting for the people in front of me to go, as I have always been taught!

The Communion wafer was the same as at the other two churches (thicker, doesn’t dissolve in your mouth like the ones in the US).

Modern Sounds

Like at Saint-Germain, I did hear modern sounds of the city. Unlike at Saint-Germain, where I could hear train sounds, as the train station was literally next door, at this church I could hear the road traffic. I believe I did hear a siren during Mass, though not the 4 I heard at Saint-Germain!

Choir

Like at Saint-Séverin and Saint-Germain, there was only one singer that I could see. I know there’s a place in the church for a choir of multiple people, but I only saw/heard the one woman. It must either be a Paris thing or a late-morning Mass thing, as this makes 3/3 churches of no multiple-person choir and only a single woman as the choir during the Mass.

Organ

This. This thing. This thing is spectacular.

I would say this was the best organ playing I’ve heard so far!

I first heard the organ before Mass, when it was playing about 10 minutes before the start of Mass. It’s always nice to hear an organ as you enter a church-very atmospheric!

During the Mass, it was played as the other organs at the other churches have been played. However, it seemed to reverb around the church much more and sometimes drowned out the singer!

After the Mass, it played for about 35 minutes. Much of the congregation stayed just to listen to it. I know this because as soon as the playing stopped (the long-held note signaled that it was the end), everyone got up and started to leave. The playing was gorgeous and the sound filled up the whole church. If you ever have the opportunity to hear this organ and organist, do it! You won’t regret it.

When the organist stood up, I believe I could see his face. Looking on the website, the organist appears to have been Daniel Roth, the main organist of the grand-organ of Saint-Sulpice. I just want to give him another round of applause-his playing was truly amazing

Overall Thoughts

First of all, this is completely different style than the others. While Gothic is truly my favorite style, and I adore Romanesque too, this church is also gorgeous. The Mass was similar to the others, as the Order of the Mass doesn’t change, so I could follow the Mass the same as with the other churches.  The English pamphlets were nice, though. Everyone could get to hear me desperately try to read along and horribly pronounce French! The thing that will stick with me the longest, though, it that organ. I wish I could have gotten a video of it, but my phone was being annoying. Again, if you ever have the opportunity to attend a concert or even go in the church after a Mass and listen to the organ and organist, take it.

For more churches, chocolate, and cheese, check back in soon!

Bibliography

Sulpice, La paroisse Saint. n.d. SAINT-SULPICE PAS À PAS. Accessed July 22, 2019. https://pss75.fr/saint-sulpice-paris/saint-sulpice-pas-a-pas/.