Hello! My name is Francesca Maisano. I am a rising junior Historic Preservation major at UMW. I love old churches and all cheeses. I eat far too much chocolate for my own good!

These are some of the things I’m looking forward to in Paris (as well as architecture in general, of course, but that doesn’t fit with the alliteration). This blog will have any my experiences with churches, chocolate, and cheese on this trip!

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More Chocolate, Less Cheese

Since my post from Monday was only about Mass on Sunday, this post covers Saturday, July 6th to Tuesday July 9th, just excluding the Mass!

In the last past, I know I said that I would just update the post with Versailles pictures, if applicable, but it looks like the posts in http://hisp470.umwblogs.org don’t update when I update on my blog, so Versailles will go here!

(And again, this post really isn’t that long-just a lot of big pictures!)

Churches

July 6th

While I wasn’t able to see the Royal Chapel in Versailles, we did stumble upon a chapel at the Petit Trianon. It was much simpler than any of the rooms in the palace of Versailles, including the Royal Chapel (I looked up pictures of it).

According to French Wikipedia, because neither the Versailles website nor English Wikipedia mention this chapel, this chapel was completed in 1773. It has neo-classical decor, and is solemn and sober. In 1785, a clock was added to the bell tower. However, it was removed and brought to the National Convention. Napoleon I ordered a new clock, which was restored in 2004 and had automatic winding added to it. in 1847, the statues were added to the sides niches. Finally, in 2007, the inner courtyard was turned into a patio.

 

After we left the Palace of Versailles into Versailles, the city, for dinner, we passed by this church as its bells were ringing. They were so loud! I wonder if the bell ringer ever lost hearing because of it!

This is the Versailles Cathedral, Cathedral Saint-Louis of Versailles.

According to Wikipedia (I couldn’t find any info on the cathedral’s website), the first stone was laid, by King Louis XV himself , on June 12, 1743, for the parish church of Saint Louis, with the consecration happening August 24, 1754. The church was built in the Classical style. During the French Revolution, it was a Temple of Abundance and was defaced. After the Revolution, the post-Revolutionary bishop chose this church as the cathedral, not the church of Notre-Dame in Versailles, which had been the cathedral prior to the Revolution. However, it was not consecrated until 1843.

July 7th

I went to Mass at Saint-Séverin. Click here to see my post about it.

 

While we were watching the finale of FIFA Women’s World Cup 2019 at the Fan Event at Les Halles, the Church of St Eustache, Paris was behind us.

According to its website, St. Eustache began as a chapel in 1213, later becoming a parish church. Then, as the population started to expand, the church needed to expand too. The construction of the current church building began on August 19, 1532, when the first stone was laid, with the church finally consecrated on April 26, 1637. However, in 1655, two chapels were built under the facade’s towers, which weakened the structure, causing the facade and the first span of the nave and aisles to be demolished. The first stone of the new, current portal was laid May 22, 1754. However, the construction has remained unfinished, even up to the present day.

The church was damaged during the French Revolution. The building was completely restored between 1846 and 1854, with other repairs in 1870-1871. A pavilion “for the market of the halls” was also built, though was demolished in 1970. Then, from 1928 to 1929, the facade was consolidated. The organ was restored in 1990. Finally, for the past several years, renovations conducted by the City of Paris, which own this building, have been going on.

July 8th

While we were walking around, we passed by Église Saint-Médard de Paris.

According to its website, the first three naves of the church were built at the end of the 15th century in the Flamboyant Gothic style. From the 16th to the 18th centuries, the expanded choir was built. The church was embellished in the 18th century, including getting the Chapel of the Virgin in 1784. Then, in 1901, the Chapel of Catechism is built (which later became the parish house in 1974).

The interior was renovated in 1960, with other renovations happening in 1974. The choir has been refurbished and a new major alter was dedicated September 11, 2011. Finally, starting in the summer of 2015, major restoration work has been happening on the south facade.

 

As a Historic Preservation student, I’m glad to see a parish that seems to appreciate and take care of its old church, giving it the proper attention before its too late.

Also, when we were walking later, I saw a church and took a picture. Turns out, when I used Google Map and looked for the church with the sign “Rue Censier”, it was this one! I’m glad I was able to get a different angle of the church, not just the front facade.

 

We also passed by Saint-Étienne-du-Mont, which I talked about on July 5th in this post.

I didn’t think we had walk so far from where we started and so close to the Panthéon!

July 9th

When we were at the Eiffel Tower, looking down, I could see the Notre Dame and Sacré-Cœur. I think I’ll wait to talk about Sacré-Cœur until we go to Montmartre.  (I think this picture is of Sacré-Cœur! I know we definitely saw it)

 

While we were walking, we passed by a church-Saint-Pierre du Gros Caillou. This time, I was able to see what the name was, so I didn’t have to do any investigation!

According to the website, the first parish church of Gros Caillou was built in 1780, but was sold for demolition and quarry in 1797-1798 during the French Revolution, and the parish was disbanded, though priests continued to minister despite the hardship. This current church was was consecrated May 1, 1830, with the parish officially restored on August 6, 1843, taking the name Saint-Pierre du Gros Caillou. Numerous additions have occurred over the years. In 1870, a new catechism hall was added, though that is now gone. In 1871, 1881 the chapel of Our Lady of Good Hope was added. In the 1910’s, there was an addition of a aisle and an apse, enlarging the church. Then, from 1967 to 1973, a chapel and “parish premises” were added, extending the church. The rebuilt bell tower, larger than before, was installed in May 1993. Finally, the “Gros Caillou 2000 operation” began in 1995, causing the building of the Parish Youth Center.

 

While at the Les Invalides complex, the last thing the class did was go to see Napoleon’s tomb in the Dôme des Invalides (Dome Church).

 

After class, I decided to visit the church attached to the Dôme des Invalides, the Cathedral of Saint-Louis des Invalides. Above, in the picture on the right in the second row, as while as the first picture in the third row, you can see the Cathedral behind the alter and canopy in the dôme  while in the picture in the first row below, the right picture, you can see the Cathedral alter, and behind it the alter and canopy of the dôme.

According to the Musée de l’Armée website, these were both designed in 1676. The Dôme was to be the royal chapel, while what is now the Cathedral was to be the veterans’ chapel, so the king and the soldiers could attend Mass at the same time, just entering through difference doors, as etiquette dictated. The Dôme was tallest building until the Eiffel Tower was built. The Veteran’s Chapel was built in a classical style, later decorated with French emblems and hundreds of war trophies. Trophies originally came from Notre Dame, which had housed them until the French Revolution, when the trophies which had not been destroyed had to be transferred. However, in 1814, nearly 1,500 were burnt in the courtyard to prevent the enemy from getting them.

In the 19th century, the tomb of Napoleon I was created, with Napoleon I being laid to rest at the Dôme on April 2, 1861. With the creation of the tomb, the two separate alters were created, with a glass wall between them, further separating the space. Today, the Cathedral of Saint-Louis des Invalides is the cathedral for the French armies.

 

Chocolate

July 6th

As part of my lunch/snack that I brought to Versailles, instead of paying for food there, there was a packet of Envitas breakfast biscuits, cereal and chocolate chip flavor (4 biscuits came in a packet-8 packets to a box). I had bought these from Lidl to have as a snack or as a breakfast item if we were getting an early start and I knew lunch would not be early. I will say-these are pretty good. Since it was a hot day, the chocolate chips became a bit melted, which actually made it even better!

 

After we got dinner in Versailles (the city, not the palace), we stopped by a bakery and chocolatier close by-à la Reine Astrid. I got a brownie (which I learned is pronounced differently in French than it is in English-different accents). It was very good. It was so moist that it fell apart when I tried to pick it up. The interior was like the filling of a pecan pie, complete with a pecan. It wasn’t a traditional brownie, and it’s a good thing I don’t have a nut allergy. I would definitely go back and get more goods from that place!

July 7th

After Mass, Emily and I went to Odette, a very well reviews pastry shop near the church, known for its choux (pastry puffs). I got a chocolate pastry puff. I was very good! The chocolate was rich and the pastry was crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside. I would definitely recommend it!

 

For lunch, we went to Le Petit Hostellerie, for their 10 euro menu (getting a starter, main dish, and dessert for 10 euros). For dessert, I got chocolate mouse. It was fine. It wasn’t the highest quality, riches chocolate, and the texture wasn’t the smoothest. I still liked it though, and I thought the three courses were well worth the 10 euro.

 

 

While watching the FIFA Women’s World Cup game, I had a packet of Envitas breakfast biscuits (same cereal and chocolate chip flavor as before).

July 8th

I just had some M&Ms from the bag from the airport

July 9th

For breakfast, I had a pain au chocolate from Carrefour, which I had gotten the night before. It wasn’t amazing, but for less than a euro, it was fine.

 

I don’t know what place we stopped at for lunch, but I got this pear and chocolate tart for dessert. It was quite good! The sweet pear matched with the more bitter chocolate nicely.

 

Cheese

July 6th

I had no cheese on July 6th

July 7th

Again, no cheese on this day

July 8th

I had some more of the chevre I got last week, on a new baguette that I bought. I’m really falling down on the cheese front these past few days, but at least I’ve had some this day!

July 9th

For lunch, we stopped at some patisserie (not sure what its name was), and I got this croque monsieur. I’m not sure what type of cheese it was. The top cheesy part was soft, though not melty, while the outside crust was crunchy, making for a nice mix of textures. This was good-and very filling!

I also had some more of that chevre and baguette-I have to finish it off before it goes bad!

For the most part, the weekend and the beginning of this week didn’t have much cheese. I’m going to need to fix that in the upcoming days!

 

 

For more churches, chocolate, and cheese, check back in soon!


Bibliography

n.d. From the Chapel of St. Agnes. Accessed July 10, 2019. https://www.saint-eustache.org/en/histoire-et-patrimoine/histoire-de-leglise/.

n.d. “Guide de la paroisse Saint-Médard.” Saint-Médard.org. Accessed July 10, 2019. https://saintmedard.org/onglet-bienvenue/guide-de-la-paroisse/.

n.d. Histoire de la Paroisse. Accessed July 10, 2019. https://www.stpierredugroscaillou.com/histoire-de-la-paroisse.

l’Armée, Musée de. n.d. The Dome (tomb of Napoleon). Accessed July 10, 2019. https://www.musee-armee.fr/en/your-visit/museum-spaces/dome-des-invalides-tomb-of-napoleon-i.html.

—. n.d. The St. Louis Cathedral. Accessed July 10, 2019. https://www.musee-armee.fr/en/your-visit/museum-spaces/cathedral-of-saint-louis-des-invalides.html.

  1. Petit Trianon. January 9. Accessed July 10, 2019. https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petit_Trianon#La_Chapelle.
  2. Versailles Cathedral. May 5. Accessed July 10, 2019. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Versailles_Cathedral.

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