Hello! My name is Francesca Maisano. I am a rising junior Historic Preservation major at UMW. I love old churches and all cheeses. I eat far too much chocolate for my own good!

These are some of the things I’m looking forward to in Paris (as well as architecture in general, of course, but that doesn’t fit with the alliteration). This blog will have any my experiences with churches, chocolate, and cheese on this trip!

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What Church Is This?

Wednesday, July 3rd to Friday, July 5th had less churches, chocolate, and cheese, so I’ve grouped these days together into one blog!

P.S. If I see anything at Churches, Chocolate, and Cheese at Versailles (i.e. if I’m able to see the chapel at Versailles), I’ll put it here! I have a different blog post I want to do for Sunday (going to my first Mass in France)

P.P.S. My other blog post seems to have malfunctioned a bit at http://hisp470.umwblogs.org (double-posted and too wide-had to scroll the side to read and see everything). If that happens again, click here to go to my actual blog, where it’s formatted correctly

Churches

July 3rd

I didn’t go into any churches that day.

However, we did walk by a church on the way to the oldest house in Paris. On Google Maps, I searched “church near 1 Rue François Miron, 75004 Paris”, the address of the Vinosfera, the wine store at the bottom of the old house. I was able to find Église Saint-Gervais-Saint-Protais de Paris. Looking at the pictures, some of them match my picture. We didn’t pass by the facade, which are most of the pictures online, so that made it harder. I also looked at Google Maps Street View. Though the street we walked on isn’t fully covered, I was able to go to the blue dots and compare as much as I can. It definitely seems like the right church.

This is my picture:

Here’s some pictures I found of the same part of the church (apparently, it’s the choir):

Here’s my picture and then Google Street View

I can’t find many resources on this church-not even a website. According to Wikipedia, construction for this church started in 1494 in the Gothic style, with its nave built in the late Gothic or “flamboyant Gothic” style. The facade was rebuilt in the French Baroque style in the early 17th century. It originally was a parish church, but in 1975 it became the headquarters of the Monastic Fraternities of Jerusalem.

 

In addition, when we were walking to the mall, we passed by a protestant church. I’m not sure what type-it said unité or unie on it, I believe. Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to figure out which one it is. I was’t able to get a picture of it. All I remember was a sign that said Église and unité or unie, since I remember wondering if it was a Unitarian church. I tried looking at Google Maps, but, using Street View, no church matches my memory. I thought I saw it right before we crossed the street, and it didn’t look super churchy (it looked like possibly the side of the building, not the facade), both of which why I didn’t take pictures.

July 4th 

I didn’t see any churches that day

July 5th

As we were walking to the Musée de Cluny, we passed by something that looked vaguely like a church, so I took a picture. Through looking at Google Maps and Street View, I’ve found it to be Sorbonne Chapel.

There’s not much for this chapel either. According to the website of Observatoire du Patrimoine Religieux, it was built between 1635 and 1642 by order of Cardinal Richelieu to replace the old Sorbonne Chapel. He wished not to have a new chapel, but a mausoleum for himself. He is indeed buried there. “A fusion between a Latin cross plan and a Greek cross plan,” this chapel has the first cut stone dome in Paris. During the  Revolution, the chapel was ransacked, then housed artists’ houses. Then, around a quarter into the 19th century, it became a place to worship again. However, it has seen been decommissioned.

 

After lunch, as we were walking, we passed by the Notre-Dame, Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre, and Saint-Séverin, three churches I talked about in my very first post on July 4th-here.

We also saw the Panthéon (Paris Panthéon, not Italian Pantheon), though no longer is one. (The Italian one is still a church and I’m actually going to see it with my family after our class ends-we’re heading down to Italy!)

By the side of the Panthéon, a church was peeking out. Again, through looking at Google Maps and Street View, I’ve found that it is Saint-Étienne-du-Mont.

Enjoy some of my initial disastrous attempts at trying to get a picture of it! (The pictures are really blurry when full size)

According to its website, an original church was built beside the now-too-small-for-the-parish Abbey of Sainte-Genevieve, the latter now replaced and remodeled into the Panthéon. This church, now Saint-Étienne, was rebuilt from 1492 to 1626. The website of Saint-Étienne calls the church “a transition period between the flamboyant gothic style and the Renaissance style.” It has the only still visible choir screen in Paris. Since the Abbey is no more, this church is now devoted to Saint Genevieve, housing some of her relics.

(P.S. this website is accessible for English speakers-there’s a Union Jack that you can click on that turns the text into English)

 

Then, we also passed by Saint-Jacques-du-Haut-Pas. I remembered the beginning of its name, Saint-Jacques, which helped me find it.

According to this church’s website, this church’s groundbreaking was in the late 16th century, after monks wishing to get their own chapel received permission to construct a chapel in 1582. Then, the 17th century, it was remodeled. In 1630, a Gothic choir was added. In 1675, the nave was rebuilt and a new facade was added. On May 6, 1685, the church was consecrated. A decade later, in 1687, the Chapel of the Virgin was built, the vault of which was decorated with paintings. The church was embellished in the 19th century. In the 20th century, after the Second Vatican Council (1962-1965), the interior was rearranged.

 

Finally, we stopped in front of the Church of the Val-de-Grâce

According to its website and Wikipedia, the church and royal abbey were founded by of Austria, wife of Louis XIII, in 1621, finished in the late 1660’s. The church has a Latin cross plan with a Baroque Dome. The dome was painted in fresco. During the French Revolution, the abbey was disestablished, becoming a military hospital in 1796 before, in 1979, becoming a museum and library of the Army Health Service, as well as housing the school of the Val-de-Grâce and hospital staff offices. It doesn’t specifically say what happened to the church. The website lists Sunday Mass at 11 AM. However, Masstimes.org doesn’t list the church.
Its website is so dated!

Chocolate

July 3rd

Before we met for class at 11, I stopped into a bakery by the metro stop and got a pain au chocolat. It was good, though I suspect it would have been be better earlier in the morning, when it was still warm. I need to start getting up earlier and going to bakeries!

July 4th

When we in Luxembourg Gardens, at the cafe (googling it, I think it was La Table du Luxembourg), I got Dark Chocolate ice cream. Wow, that was the darkest, most bitter chocolate ice cream I’ve ever had! I liked it, though. If someone doesn’t love dark chocolate, or is even lukewarm about it, I would not recommend this to them. The almond tuile that came with it was very good and complemented the ice cream well. I wish there was more tuile, enough to eat the entire ice cream with it. This ice cream was definitely the more typical hard(?)/not soft serve ice cream, not the sorbet-like ice cream from Tuesday.

July 5th

I got a chocolate crepe for dessert at the crepe place we went to for lunch. Unlike the crepe from Tuesday, this crepe had its chocolate on the inside. It was a very good crepe, but less chocolaty compared to the other one. I think it’s because there’s more crepe and less chocolate with this one, since the chocolate is surrounded top and bottom by crepe.

We also walked by this shop-Maison Georges Larnicol-on 19 Rue de la Harpe. It’s a difference store of the same company as seen in the middle picture of my header (that’s on my blog). I’ll have to go to one of the stores before this trip ends, though I might need to check the prices first!

Cheese

July 3rd

I had no cheese that day. The Alfredo sauce from the cafeteria of the Cité Internationale Universitaire may have had some Parmesan cheese, but I don’t know what went into the sauce.

July 4th

For brunch, I had some baguette with chevre. This is the same chevre from the picnic on Monday-we were allowed to take it back with us. On Monday, we got some baguette for the chevre at a grocery store.

July 5th

At the crepe place we went to for lunch, I got a crepe with egg, cheese, and mushrooms. The cheese inside was Emmental. It’s the same time of cheese was the airplane dinner, but melted. While I like hard cheeses (I love Gouda) I think I prefer Emmental melted. This crepe was in the same shape as the one from Tuesday, and was also buckwheat. I’ve never seen a buckwheat crepe in the US, even for savory crepes, and never in that shape.

 

For more churches, chocolate, and cheese, check back in soon!


Bibliography

A00088485, @ Merimee P. n.d. Chapelle Sainte-Ursule de la Sorbonne. Accessed July 5, 2019. https://www.patrimoine-religieux.fr/eglises_edifices/75-Paris/75105-ParisVArrdt/174172-ChapelleSainte-UrsuledelaSorbonne.

n.d. Histoire. Accessed July 5, 2019. https://www.saintjacquesduhautpas.com/la-paroisse/histoire/.

n.d. Historical account. Accessed July 5, 2019. https://www.saintetiennedumont.fr/en/historical-account/.

n.d. Indoor architecture. Accessed July 5, 2019. https://www.saintetiennedumont.fr/en/indoor-architecture/.

n.d. l’église du Val-de-Grâce. Accessed July 5, 2019. http://www.valdegrace.org/pages/page123.html.

n.d. Overall and outdoor architecture. Accessed July 5, 2019. https://www.saintetiennedumont.fr/en/overall-and-outdoor-architecture/.

n.d. St-Gervais-et-St-Protais. Wikipedia. Accessed July 4, 2019. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St-Gervais-et-St-Protais.

  1. Val-de-Grâce (church). May 4. Accessed July 5, 2019. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Val-de-Gr%C3%A2ce_(church).

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